A Living Mosaic of History and Culture

The recent discovery of ancient artifacts in the old house at 32 Tripodon Street in Plaka—known as the “Kokovikos House” from the 1965 Greek comedy by Giorgos Tzavellas—confirms that the historic center of Athens is a mosaic of 2,500 years of history, culture, and living memory. This house, like many others, stands as a testament to the city’s layered past, where different eras and stories converge, revealing the lives, events, and legends that shaped Athens.

The Kokovikos House: A Window into Ottoman Athens

The Kokovikos House, a classic residence from the late Ottoman period, is one of Athens’ oldest surviving buildings used exclusively as a home. Built around 1800, it is a rare, authentic example of the era’s folk architecture. The three-story, 266-square-meter building, with a basement and two floors, features a tiled roof, a shared courtyard, multiple windows, and an external stone staircase.

Its first resident was Haji Khalil Efendi, a kadi (judge) who lived there when the Greek Revolution broke out in Athens on April 25, 1821. Summoned to Constantinople by the Sublime Porte, he refused to issue orders for the massacre of Orthodox Christians under his jurisdiction. For this, he was tortured and executed on the sultan’s orders.

The house later served various purposes, including as a private school, and was expropriated in 1979 for archaeological research. Excavations in the early 2000s revealed significant finds from the classical, early Christian, and Byzantine periods. Today, it is being restored and will become a cultural center showcasing Greek cinema, preserving its place in the collective memory of modern Greeks.

The 10 Oldest Mansions of Athens: Stories and Legends

These mansions, built or renovated in the 19th century, are mostly located in Plaka, the heart of Athens’ rebirth after its declaration as the capital in 1834. Each tells a unique story, reflecting the city’s transformation from Ottoman rule to modern Greece.

1. Benizelos Mansion (Adrianou 96, Plaka / 16th century)

The oldest surviving house in Athens, the Benizelos Mansion, belonged to the aristocratic Benizelos family. Dating back to the 16th century, it is a prime example of Ottoman architecture, featuring a hayati (wooden balcony), an inner courtyard, and a well. It was the birthplace of Saint Philothei of Athens (Regoula Benizelos), a revered figure in Greek Orthodoxy. Today, it operates as a museum, offering visitors a glimpse into the life of Athens’ upper class during the Ottoman era.

2. Logothetis Mansion (Areos 14, Monastiraki / 17th century)

This 17th-century mansion belonged to Nikolaos Logothetis, a prominent Athenian. The building’s stone staircase, archway, and courtyard remain, along with the small chapel of Agios Elissaios. Logothetis hosted Lord Elgin, who temporarily stored the Parthenon Marbles here before shipping them to Britain. The mansion later housed the Court of Audit and the Arsakeio School.

3. Kleanthes-Schaubert House (Tholou 5, Plaka / 17th century)

This house, with its distinctive Athenian and romantic elements, was purchased by the Macedonian architect Stamatis Kleanthes and his Bavarian colleague Eduard Schaubert. They were invited by Ioannis Kapodistrias to draft Athens’ first urban plan. The house later served as the first Greek university (Othonian University) and now hosts the Museum of the History of the University of Athens.

4. Lassanis Mansion (Diogenous 1-3, Plaka / 1833-1837)

Built by Georgios Lassanis, a scholar and politician, this mansion is a fine example of early Athenian neoclassical architecture. It now houses the Museum of Greek Folk Musical Instruments, featuring a collection of 1,200 instruments dating back to the 18th century.

5. Koutsalexis House (Diogenous 12, Plaka / 19th century)

Originally built during the Ottoman period, this house was expanded by the Koutsalexis brothers in 1836. It served as the first Ministry of Naval Affairs and later hosted the famous “Katakombes” boite in the 1960s.

6. Decozis-Vouris Mansion (Klauthmonos Square / 1831)

Built by Stamatios Decozis-Vouris, a Chian banker, this mansion was temporarily used by King Otto and Queen Amalia upon their arrival in Athens. Today, it houses the Museum of the City of Athens.

7. Finlay House (Kekropous 8, Plaka / 1835)

This house belonged to the Scottish historian George Finlay, a philhellene who participated in the Greek Revolution. It is a transitional example from Ottoman to neoclassical architecture and now stands as a quiet monument in Plaka.

8. Malcolm Villa (Agias Zonis 39, Kypseli / 1828-1832)

Built by British Admiral Sir Pulteney Malcolm, this villa is one of the few surviving examples of early neoclassical architecture in Othonian Greece. It was constructed on the spot where Kioutachis, the Ottoman commander, had set up his tent during the siege of the Acropolis.

9. Tserch Tower (Scholeiou 5, Plaka / 1701)

This three-story tower, with its distinctive chimney and small windows, was built during the Ottoman period and later owned by the Scottish historian George Finlay. It housed Irish philhellene General Richard Church and is now a protected monument.

10. Church of the Holy Apostles (Agora of Athens / 10th century)

While not a mansion, this small Byzantine church is one of the oldest surviving buildings in Athens and a testament to the city’s continuous habitation and architectural evolution.

A Legacy Preserved

These mansions, some grand and others modest, are emblematic of their time. They have survived wars, neglect, and auctions, and now stand as living museums, telling the stories of Athens’ past to visitors and passersby. Their preservation is a testament to the city’s commitment to its rich heritage and the enduring legacy of its people.